Frozen thawed prey is always preferable to live, as mice and rats can potentially injure your snake, even during constriction.įeeding Frequency: Babies and juveniles can be fed once every 7-10 days. A sturdy branch can also be supplied should your snake desire to climb, but adults are far less likely to than younger snakes.ĭiet: Mice as babies and rats as juvies/adults are the only food your boa will need, the size of the meal being equal to the largest portion of the snake. Two hides should be provided, one on the hot side and one on the cooler side. Just be sure not to overmist as too high of a humidity percentage can result in a respiratory infectionĭecoration: Any reptile-safe decorations are okay to use. Water/Humidity Requirements: A large water bowl should always be kept in the enclosure and checked and changed frequently, as many boas make a habit of soaking/relieving themselves inside of it Humidity should stay between 60-70%.Įnclosure Flooring: Good options for substrate include cypress mulch and fir bark/mulch, as they hold humidity well. Adults require a minimum floorspace of 4 ft. Babies can be housed in 20-30 gallon enclosures, and juveniles under 3 ft in 30-40 gallons. As previously mentioned, boas grow rather quickly. A heat mat hooked up to a thermostat should instead be used, and cover a third of the floor of the enclosure.

Heat lamps are generally not recommend as they make humidity tougher to maintain, and boas tend to instead prefer belly heat for thermoregulating. There is very little data regarding boas and UV lighting, and many owners do not have them installed. Temperature/Lighting/Space Requirements: Your boa requires a heat gradient inside its enclosure with a hot side of ~85 degrees, hot spot of ~90 degrees, and a cooler side in the high 70’s. These snakes can easily live 20+ years with proper husbandry. Length/Lifespan: Female boas are longer on average than males, usually reaching lengths of 6-9 ft. Despite this they are still snakes, and shouldn’t be handled more than 2-3 times a week, and never on a day before or 2-3 days after feeding. These snakes seem to do well with handling, but should be given at least a week to acclimate to their new surroundings. Red-tail boas are considered hardy and have straightforward care, but they’re size, rapid growth, and long lifespan must be considered when purchasing one. Red-tail boas have bred in captivity for years, and as a result have become readily available in a wide range of color morphs. A curious feature of boid snakes is the presence of “pelvic spurs” on either side of their vent, which are believed to be the remnants of hind legs from their ancestors that actually used them. In the wild, they are primarily nocturnal ambush predators, subduing their prey by constriction. Species Info: Red-tail boas are semi-arboreal (tree living), non-venomous snakes from tropical areas of South America.

Boa constrictor care